Tuesday, May 15, 2012

A Brief Guide to Wrapping Kimono and Obi (part 1)

In 2005, University of Kentucky Opera Theatre presented Madama Butterfly with costumes designed by Robert Haven.  He designed the costumes with some modifications to accomodate budget and theatrical necessities, while on the surface retaining the look of the traditional Japanese Kimono.

Assisted by two of UK's fine undergraduate voice students - here is a two-part tutorial on how to wrap these Kimono. 

Part One:  The Kimono

You will need:
1 undershirt (for Geisha, your shirt should have two ties dangling from the back of the neck)
1 underskirt
1 outer Kimono
2-3 Twill ties.

For Men and Women -
Put on your tabi (spit toe socks) and zori (straw sandals)  You probably won't be able to reach down when we're done.

Wrap the underskirt around your waist, making sure to wrap LEFT over RIGHT*.
Put on the Undershirt, and take 1 twill tie, and tie it around your waist, making sure that the garment wraps LEFT over RIGHT.








For men and non-Geishas, you need only to wrap the twill tie around the front of the undershirt - this will help your kimono lie flat in the back.
Geishas should tie their twill tie around the entire garment because:

For Geishas only:  take the two attached ties and tie them around the waist tie, pulling the collar away from the neck
You want to have a fist size gap between the back of the collar and the neck

 Next, for men and women, put on the Kimono, making sure that the undershirt sleeves are tucked into the Kimono sleeves.
For Geishas - place a clothespin or other clip over collar and Kimono at the center back of the neck, to keep the Kimono from shifting.

For Women only (Including Geishas):  Get a buddy to help you, as you (the Kimono wearer) hold out the front of the Kimono and lift it until it is just above your feet.  Your buddy then lifts the back of the Kimono to the same height. 
Once the Kimono is lifted to the proper height, the Kimono wearer pulls the Kimono to the front, making sure it is wrapped LEFT over RIGHT while the buddy takes a twill tie and ties the Kimono at the waist, keeping the excess fabric above the twill tie.

    
 For Men: Wrap the Kimono LEFT over RIGHT and tie at the waist with a twill tie. Some adjustment for length is possible but it should not be more than a small tuck (1-2 inches).


Your Kimono is now ready for an Obi.

*Why is it so important to make sure the Kimono is always wrapped left over right?

Because the Kimono is only wrapped Right over Left for funerals - you do not want to be the walking dead.


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